After four wonderful weeks in Iquitos, tomorrow our foursome will say goodbye (until school starts) and we will go our separate ways.
This weekend, twenty medical students from around the world came to Iquitos to work with Amazon Promise, an NGO founded and operated by my friend, Patty Webster. Amazon Promise is an organization that sends groups of medical professionals and students to remote areas in the jungle to give much needed medical care. On Sunday, we went to the Amazon Promise house, an apartment in one of the old colonial mansions on the malecon, so everyone could meet Patty and enjoy a typical Peruvian lunch. We chatted with the med students and then gave a brief presentation to the group about our work in Belen and the other municipalities around Iquitos. The Amazon Promise med students will be working this week at a free clinic in Belen, so hopefully our presentation gave them some good background information about living conditions in the area.
Today, we visited the Centros de Salud that we have been working with to drop off a summary of our findings in all the municipalities. At each site, we picked up some data from the health posts about local rates of diarrhea and GI parasites that we will compare to the data that we collected. Derek visited the local lab and checked on the status of our water samples--they should be done tomorrow!
After we wrapped up all our loose ends from our project, we headed out on the Rio Nanay to the Mariposario (Butterfly Farm) about 30 minutes by peca-peca (a typical small Peruvian boat). Upon arrival, we were greeted by several macaws and a lagoon teeming with wildlife. We then took a guided tour around the compound, which included a large netted-in sanctuary that houses over 40 species of butterflies. The Butterfly Farm breeds butterflies in its hatchery, releasing 70% of the adult butterflies into the wild and keeping 30% of them to continue to reproduce in the sanctuary.
Although it began only as a farm for butterflies, the compound quickly grew into a refuge for battered and illegally poached animals that are confiscated in and around Iquitos. Unfortunately, due to the diversity of animals in the jungle, Iquitos is a hotbed for illegal trafficking of animals. These animals are captured from the jungle, brought to the city, and then sold as pets or for their furs. When authorities in Iquitos encounter these illegally trafficked animals, they confiscate the animal, but often have no good place to send the animal for rehabilitation. About 8 years ago, the first such animal (a jaguar named Pedro) was dropped off at the gates of the Butterfly Farm. Since then, many illegally poached animals have made their homes at the Butterfly Farm, where they are cared for humanely.
Now it is time for the Last Supper for Katie and Chloe: pollo con chaufa at Kikiriki. Chloe has been awaiting this meal as a culmination of her two favorite Peruvian foods: roasted chicken and fried rice.
Buenas noches!!!
Kim
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Saturday, July 23, 2011
Out and About in Iquitos: Our Travels to the Amazon
After completing our surveying in Belen on Monday (!!!), we had some time while we waited for the lab results to return which will make our data set complete. We had a few days to catch up on much needed rest and relaxation, which were fairly uneventful. Here are a few highlights:
On Tuesday, we celebrated the success of our data collection and the Peruvian soccer team by taking a boat to Al Frio y Al Fuego, a floating restaurant out on the Nanay tributary. The two-story thatched building is quite picturesque, even at night. From there we had a delicious dinner while watching Peru play Uruguay in the Copa America semi-finals. Unfortunately, the Peruvian team did not advance but we were still excited by how far they were able to go in the tournament.
Wednesday included a trip to Caza y Pesca, a local swimming spot near the Puerta Nanay (Nanay Port). With a restaurant up above on the second story of the stilted building, there is also a dock area down below for lounging and dipping in the river water. Lots of fun to be had here by all.
Thursday morning we set off for our excursion to the Amazon jungle! We met at the local tour company office at 9AM where we were taken by car (our first car ride in weeks!) to the marina area. From there we boarded a boat and set out on the Nanay in the direction of the mighty Amazon river. On the way out of Iquitos we were able to see the hustle and bustle of the local port activity. Iquitos, a city inaccessible by road, relies on the river for its import and export of goods. There is always a lot of movement on the river, as boats carrying all types of products move in and out of the city. We also saw several large ferries with four or five stories filled with hammocks. These boats transport people up and down the river to other countries like Brasil and Colombia. Some of these boat trips take several days, but are a very common option for local travel. One of the most striking images of that morning was the crossing over onto the Amazon river. The Nanay, a tributary of the Amazon, differs drastically in color, composition, and water movement from the Amazon itself. This difference manifests itself as a dramatic line between the two rivers, as you move from the more clear, calm, blue Nanay to the brown, turbid, choppier Amazon. Once on the Amazon, we braved the incoming ominous clouds for an hour journey to the Cumaceba Lodge. Arriving thoroughly soaked, we hopped onto the muddy banks and hurried to the elevated walkway that led us through the jungle to our final destination.
The moment we stepped into the jungle, we became aware of all the life that exists within it. We had barely been there 5 minutes before seeing a giant, brown, furry tarantula creeping above our heads along with a tiny bright green snake wrapped around one of the poles of the walkway. We hoped this was an indication of all the different creatures we were about to see over the next two days! After walking a few minutes we finally arrived at the lodge, a web of covered elevated walkways leading from bungalow to bungalow with a large dining room in the center and two round open-air hammock rooms on its sides. Everything is a few feet above ground because during the wet months (January to March especially), the river rises so much that the lodge becomes surrounded by water. The best part about the lodge was being surrounded by the jungle and all its noises. There are no walls or windows on the rooms. Where glass or wood would be, there is only thick mosquito netting so you can always listen to the soundtrack of the jungle throughout the day and night. This was one of the best parts for me.
After eating a delicious lunch of fish, rice, beans, plantains and watermelon, we headed off on our first adventure to Isla de Los Monos (Monkey Island)! We grabbed some bananas to take with us at the suggestion of our guide Freddy and boarded another boat. As we pulled up to our destination, you could see the monkeys swinging from trees on the banks and making their way down to the dock. As soon as we got there, we were bombarded with monkeys of all shapes and sizes. They were not shy, scaling you like a tree in search of the bananas they knew you would bring. It takes a second to get used to having a monkey climb you, especially the sensation of them using their strong tail as essentially another limb. It is also mind-blowing how human like they are, especially their hands, ears, and distinct facial expressions. We spent some time visiting with each of the different types of monkeys until the bananas were gone and they indubitably lost interest. There were more than just monkeys on this Monkey Island. We also were able to hold a vibrant toucan, observe a roaming pack of anteaters, check out a prehistoric tortoise, sit next to a large anaconda, and take pictures of a baby Cayman alligator. We sampled a local drink called Siete Raices (Seven Roots, referencing its origin) and were told about some of the local jungle products like anaconda oil and how they are medicinally used. On our way back to the boat, we ran into Ramona the Sloth and were able to hold this unique jungle creature. Sloths have the slowest metabolism of all animals, which is very evident when you see up close how sloooooowly they move. They spend most of their time camouflaged in a tree, only coming down once a week. It was a treat to be able to catch a sight of this rarely seen animal. After departing the island, we turned up the river to try to see Los Bufeos Colorados (pink river dolphins), another rare sight. One man we met on our trip was working on completing his life goal of visiting every single country, with Peru being #38. He told us he specifically came to the Amazon to see these pink river dolphins because of how unique and rare they are. Lucky for us, we saw several at dusk, surfacing in small packs on the horizon. Next, we pulled up to a bank for a quick dip in the Amazon water. Kim and Derek braved the murky waters and took advantage of the rich river mud by slathering it all over in an impromptu spa treatment. Traveling back to the lodge, we got to witness the beautiful sunset over the river. It was a perfect day, but not over yet...
After dinner of grilled chicken, rice, beans, plantains, and papaya, we donned our rubber boots and trekked down to the lake on the back side of the Cumaceba Lodge. We boarded two wooden canoes and set off in complete silence in search of Caymans. Seeing the jungle at night gave us a whole different perspective. A myriad of stars lit up the sky and glowworms living on the lechuga de agua ("water lettuce"/water lilies) illuminated the water surface. Scanning the water's edge with a flashlight, we could see the red reflections of the sets of alligator eyes peering over the top of the water. We were able to sneak up on one, which Freddy somehow grabbed in a flash from underneath the surface. It was only a baby, about 3-6 months old, but was fascinating to see up close. We also saw a bright yellow parrot in a tree on the banks, and heard the loud echoing croaks of the Smoky Amazon Frog, the largest frog in the jungle. It makes quite an impressive noise, which lulled us to sleep that night in our bungalows.
The next morning there was a 5:30AM wake-up to see the sunrise on the river and to spot some Amazonian birds, each with a variety of bright colors and elaborate plumage. There was also the chance to see the giant Amazon lily pads,which are several feet in diameter and anchored to the bottom with spiny roots the size of garden hoses. Their flowers look like floating coconuts during the day, but at night open up to reveal a leafy white blossom. Breakfast included eggs, traditional bread with butter and jam, and papaya, and was followed by some relaxation time rocking in the hammock room. We have decided, after many trials and test runs, that hammock rooms should be included more often in America. They certainly are a great addition to any house, restaurant, bar, or hotel. Later, the rubber boots went back on for a really muddy walk through the jungle to a local Yagua tribe. On the way there, we saw different types of plants and trees, while Freddy told us about the unique uses that each of these have in traditional medicine. We also made a stop to see the largest type of tree in the Amazon, complete with swinging vines a la George of the Jungle. Having arrived at the Yagua tribe, we were treated to a traditional native song and dance as well as the opportunity to browse their handmade goods and try out our skills on the blow dart gun. We quickly found out that this does not come naturally.
We returned by boat to the lodge for our last lunch, another delicious type of fish with (you guessed it!) rice, beans, and plantains. Then we hopped back on the boat and sadly said goodbye to the Cumaceba Lodge and Amazon jungle. Our ride back was a great opportunity to see the last of the jungle scenery. We arrived at the apartment exhausted and mosquito-bitten, but happy at having been able to see a bit of all that the Amazon jungle has to offer. We all agreed it was one of the highs of our trip thus far!
On Tuesday, we celebrated the success of our data collection and the Peruvian soccer team by taking a boat to Al Frio y Al Fuego, a floating restaurant out on the Nanay tributary. The two-story thatched building is quite picturesque, even at night. From there we had a delicious dinner while watching Peru play Uruguay in the Copa America semi-finals. Unfortunately, the Peruvian team did not advance but we were still excited by how far they were able to go in the tournament.
Wednesday included a trip to Caza y Pesca, a local swimming spot near the Puerta Nanay (Nanay Port). With a restaurant up above on the second story of the stilted building, there is also a dock area down below for lounging and dipping in the river water. Lots of fun to be had here by all.
Thursday morning we set off for our excursion to the Amazon jungle! We met at the local tour company office at 9AM where we were taken by car (our first car ride in weeks!) to the marina area. From there we boarded a boat and set out on the Nanay in the direction of the mighty Amazon river. On the way out of Iquitos we were able to see the hustle and bustle of the local port activity. Iquitos, a city inaccessible by road, relies on the river for its import and export of goods. There is always a lot of movement on the river, as boats carrying all types of products move in and out of the city. We also saw several large ferries with four or five stories filled with hammocks. These boats transport people up and down the river to other countries like Brasil and Colombia. Some of these boat trips take several days, but are a very common option for local travel. One of the most striking images of that morning was the crossing over onto the Amazon river. The Nanay, a tributary of the Amazon, differs drastically in color, composition, and water movement from the Amazon itself. This difference manifests itself as a dramatic line between the two rivers, as you move from the more clear, calm, blue Nanay to the brown, turbid, choppier Amazon. Once on the Amazon, we braved the incoming ominous clouds for an hour journey to the Cumaceba Lodge. Arriving thoroughly soaked, we hopped onto the muddy banks and hurried to the elevated walkway that led us through the jungle to our final destination.
The moment we stepped into the jungle, we became aware of all the life that exists within it. We had barely been there 5 minutes before seeing a giant, brown, furry tarantula creeping above our heads along with a tiny bright green snake wrapped around one of the poles of the walkway. We hoped this was an indication of all the different creatures we were about to see over the next two days! After walking a few minutes we finally arrived at the lodge, a web of covered elevated walkways leading from bungalow to bungalow with a large dining room in the center and two round open-air hammock rooms on its sides. Everything is a few feet above ground because during the wet months (January to March especially), the river rises so much that the lodge becomes surrounded by water. The best part about the lodge was being surrounded by the jungle and all its noises. There are no walls or windows on the rooms. Where glass or wood would be, there is only thick mosquito netting so you can always listen to the soundtrack of the jungle throughout the day and night. This was one of the best parts for me.
Our jungle home for 2 days.
After eating a delicious lunch of fish, rice, beans, plantains and watermelon, we headed off on our first adventure to Isla de Los Monos (Monkey Island)! We grabbed some bananas to take with us at the suggestion of our guide Freddy and boarded another boat. As we pulled up to our destination, you could see the monkeys swinging from trees on the banks and making their way down to the dock. As soon as we got there, we were bombarded with monkeys of all shapes and sizes. They were not shy, scaling you like a tree in search of the bananas they knew you would bring. It takes a second to get used to having a monkey climb you, especially the sensation of them using their strong tail as essentially another limb. It is also mind-blowing how human like they are, especially their hands, ears, and distinct facial expressions. We spent some time visiting with each of the different types of monkeys until the bananas were gone and they indubitably lost interest. There were more than just monkeys on this Monkey Island. We also were able to hold a vibrant toucan, observe a roaming pack of anteaters, check out a prehistoric tortoise, sit next to a large anaconda, and take pictures of a baby Cayman alligator. We sampled a local drink called Siete Raices (Seven Roots, referencing its origin) and were told about some of the local jungle products like anaconda oil and how they are medicinally used. On our way back to the boat, we ran into Ramona the Sloth and were able to hold this unique jungle creature. Sloths have the slowest metabolism of all animals, which is very evident when you see up close how sloooooowly they move. They spend most of their time camouflaged in a tree, only coming down once a week. It was a treat to be able to catch a sight of this rarely seen animal. After departing the island, we turned up the river to try to see Los Bufeos Colorados (pink river dolphins), another rare sight. One man we met on our trip was working on completing his life goal of visiting every single country, with Peru being #38. He told us he specifically came to the Amazon to see these pink river dolphins because of how unique and rare they are. Lucky for us, we saw several at dusk, surfacing in small packs on the horizon. Next, we pulled up to a bank for a quick dip in the Amazon water. Kim and Derek braved the murky waters and took advantage of the rich river mud by slathering it all over in an impromptu spa treatment. Traveling back to the lodge, we got to witness the beautiful sunset over the river. It was a perfect day, but not over yet...
After dinner of grilled chicken, rice, beans, plantains, and papaya, we donned our rubber boots and trekked down to the lake on the back side of the Cumaceba Lodge. We boarded two wooden canoes and set off in complete silence in search of Caymans. Seeing the jungle at night gave us a whole different perspective. A myriad of stars lit up the sky and glowworms living on the lechuga de agua ("water lettuce"/water lilies) illuminated the water surface. Scanning the water's edge with a flashlight, we could see the red reflections of the sets of alligator eyes peering over the top of the water. We were able to sneak up on one, which Freddy somehow grabbed in a flash from underneath the surface. It was only a baby, about 3-6 months old, but was fascinating to see up close. We also saw a bright yellow parrot in a tree on the banks, and heard the loud echoing croaks of the Smoky Amazon Frog, the largest frog in the jungle. It makes quite an impressive noise, which lulled us to sleep that night in our bungalows.
The next morning there was a 5:30AM wake-up to see the sunrise on the river and to spot some Amazonian birds, each with a variety of bright colors and elaborate plumage. There was also the chance to see the giant Amazon lily pads,which are several feet in diameter and anchored to the bottom with spiny roots the size of garden hoses. Their flowers look like floating coconuts during the day, but at night open up to reveal a leafy white blossom. Breakfast included eggs, traditional bread with butter and jam, and papaya, and was followed by some relaxation time rocking in the hammock room. We have decided, after many trials and test runs, that hammock rooms should be included more often in America. They certainly are a great addition to any house, restaurant, bar, or hotel. Later, the rubber boots went back on for a really muddy walk through the jungle to a local Yagua tribe. On the way there, we saw different types of plants and trees, while Freddy told us about the unique uses that each of these have in traditional medicine. We also made a stop to see the largest type of tree in the Amazon, complete with swinging vines a la George of the Jungle. Having arrived at the Yagua tribe, we were treated to a traditional native song and dance as well as the opportunity to browse their handmade goods and try out our skills on the blow dart gun. We quickly found out that this does not come naturally.
We returned by boat to the lodge for our last lunch, another delicious type of fish with (you guessed it!) rice, beans, and plantains. Then we hopped back on the boat and sadly said goodbye to the Cumaceba Lodge and Amazon jungle. Our ride back was a great opportunity to see the last of the jungle scenery. We arrived at the apartment exhausted and mosquito-bitten, but happy at having been able to see a bit of all that the Amazon jungle has to offer. We all agreed it was one of the highs of our trip thus far!
The gang says hello from the Amazon!
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
Eat, Drink, and Be Merry Part Dos
As previously promised, here's the follow up food post! I hope you all salivate over the photos as I continue to discuss the delicious Peruvian cuisine we encounter here on the daily.
Special Peruvian Dishes
Cuy - guinea pig. That's right, guinea pig. A popular dish and tourist attraction, especially in Cusco. Katie and I had the pleasure of tasting this delicacy during our travels before coming to Iquitos. My thoughts on the matter? A bit salty, reminded me of bacon, but with tiny pieces of bones to pick at. Definitely try it if you get the chance. Besides, now I can say I've had guinea pig!
Lomo de alpaca - Alpaca steak. SO GOOD. Again, Katie and I tried this in Cusco. The texture was similar to a good steak, medium of course. The taste reminded me of lamb to some degree. Overall, highly recommended. (Please note the papas in the photo, they are EVERYwhere.)
Ceviche - no Latin American experience is complete without some ceviche. Ceviche is essentially raw fish marinated in citrus juices such as lemon or lime, spiced with chilli peppers. It's usually accompanied by side dishes that will compliment its flavor, such as sweet potatoes, corn, yucca, or avocado. Prepared fresh upon request (as it is raw fish), ceviche makes for an excellent lunch option on a hot summer day.
Cecina con tacacho - Cecina is a pork dish where the meat is cured/dried and then grilled. Do not be alarmed by its orange color, one bite and you will be sold. Tacacho is what usually comes with a cecina dish. These dough-like balls are made from sliced plantains, which are fried, then mashed in with chicharrones (fried pork fat!) Que deliciosas!
Drinks/Desserts
Inca Kola - for those of you that know me well, I hardly ever drink soda. But since arriving in Peru, I have consumed more Inca Kola than previously thought possible. Some have described it to have "an acquired taste." Some also liken it to "liquid bubblegum." I'm not sure if I agree with either. I just know that it is delicious and refreshing. Its intense yellow color will not drive me away.
Cusqueña - THE beer of Peru. Brewed in Cusco with water from the Andes, full of Incan history, the beer is light and crisp. And this, I quote directly from the website -- "The flavor and subtly complex, malted barley aroma of freshly baked bread balance harmoniously with a pleasantly delicate, herbal and spicy complexity that only can come from utilizing three different hops."
Pisco Sour - a cocktail consisted of pisco, lemon/lime juice, syrup, and egg whites. Its origin is hotly debated. Both Chile and Peru lay claim to the drink (I'm going to be on Peru's side for this one.) Peru even has a National Pisco Sour day, celebrated annually on the first weekend in February. Take that, Chile.
Refrescos/Jugos - "refreshers" or fruit juices. Every meal here is accompanied with a refresco of some kind. Located in the Amazonian jungle, Iquitos has a variety of tropical fruits that are readily available to be made into beverages. Refrescos are a bit lighter, mixed in with water and ice, what we probably relate to as lemonade and such. Common refresco flavors include chica morada (purple corn drink with a hint of cinnamon), maracuya (passion fruit), and camu camu (a small pink tropical fruit full of vitamin C!) Jugos are thicker in consistency, and are more similar to milkshakes or smoothies. Our favorite here is the jugo surtido, which is a generous amount of strawberries, papayas, and plantains, mixed in with milk and honey. Perfecto.
Churros - last but not least, our favorite street vendor dessert -- churros. Any day that we encounter "the churro man" with his cart on the street, is a great day. Don't be fooled, these are not the kind of churros you buy from Cinnabon at the mall. These are made fresh upon order, dipped and fried in hot oil, filled with manjar (carmel filling) as soon as they cool down, and sprinkled with sugar. It's hard to limit oneself to enjoying just one, but more than 3 will inevitably lead to stomach issues (ask Kim for more details if you so wish.)
I hope you all have enjoyed taking this culinary journey with us. Do not hesitate to let us know which was your favorite, for we will consume it here on your behalf. Off to the jungle tomorrow, ciao!
Xoxo,
Chlo
Special Peruvian Dishes
Cuy - guinea pig. That's right, guinea pig. A popular dish and tourist attraction, especially in Cusco. Katie and I had the pleasure of tasting this delicacy during our travels before coming to Iquitos. My thoughts on the matter? A bit salty, reminded me of bacon, but with tiny pieces of bones to pick at. Definitely try it if you get the chance. Besides, now I can say I've had guinea pig!
Lomo de alpaca - Alpaca steak. SO GOOD. Again, Katie and I tried this in Cusco. The texture was similar to a good steak, medium of course. The taste reminded me of lamb to some degree. Overall, highly recommended. (Please note the papas in the photo, they are EVERYwhere.)
Ceviche - no Latin American experience is complete without some ceviche. Ceviche is essentially raw fish marinated in citrus juices such as lemon or lime, spiced with chilli peppers. It's usually accompanied by side dishes that will compliment its flavor, such as sweet potatoes, corn, yucca, or avocado. Prepared fresh upon request (as it is raw fish), ceviche makes for an excellent lunch option on a hot summer day.
Cecina con tacacho - Cecina is a pork dish where the meat is cured/dried and then grilled. Do not be alarmed by its orange color, one bite and you will be sold. Tacacho is what usually comes with a cecina dish. These dough-like balls are made from sliced plantains, which are fried, then mashed in with chicharrones (fried pork fat!) Que deliciosas!
Drinks/Desserts
Inca Kola - for those of you that know me well, I hardly ever drink soda. But since arriving in Peru, I have consumed more Inca Kola than previously thought possible. Some have described it to have "an acquired taste." Some also liken it to "liquid bubblegum." I'm not sure if I agree with either. I just know that it is delicious and refreshing. Its intense yellow color will not drive me away.
Cusqueña - THE beer of Peru. Brewed in Cusco with water from the Andes, full of Incan history, the beer is light and crisp. And this, I quote directly from the website -- "The flavor and subtly complex, malted barley aroma of freshly baked bread balance harmoniously with a pleasantly delicate, herbal and spicy complexity that only can come from utilizing three different hops."
Pisco Sour - a cocktail consisted of pisco, lemon/lime juice, syrup, and egg whites. Its origin is hotly debated. Both Chile and Peru lay claim to the drink (I'm going to be on Peru's side for this one.) Peru even has a National Pisco Sour day, celebrated annually on the first weekend in February. Take that, Chile.
Refrescos/Jugos - "refreshers" or fruit juices. Every meal here is accompanied with a refresco of some kind. Located in the Amazonian jungle, Iquitos has a variety of tropical fruits that are readily available to be made into beverages. Refrescos are a bit lighter, mixed in with water and ice, what we probably relate to as lemonade and such. Common refresco flavors include chica morada (purple corn drink with a hint of cinnamon), maracuya (passion fruit), and camu camu (a small pink tropical fruit full of vitamin C!) Jugos are thicker in consistency, and are more similar to milkshakes or smoothies. Our favorite here is the jugo surtido, which is a generous amount of strawberries, papayas, and plantains, mixed in with milk and honey. Perfecto.
Churros - last but not least, our favorite street vendor dessert -- churros. Any day that we encounter "the churro man" with his cart on the street, is a great day. Don't be fooled, these are not the kind of churros you buy from Cinnabon at the mall. These are made fresh upon order, dipped and fried in hot oil, filled with manjar (carmel filling) as soon as they cool down, and sprinkled with sugar. It's hard to limit oneself to enjoying just one, but more than 3 will inevitably lead to stomach issues (ask Kim for more details if you so wish.)
I hope you all have enjoyed taking this culinary journey with us. Do not hesitate to let us know which was your favorite, for we will consume it here on your behalf. Off to the jungle tomorrow, ciao!
Xoxo,
Chlo
Monday, July 18, 2011
Completion of Belen Surveys/ Weekend Replay
Hola todos!
We have some good news to share: Today we completed our surveys and water sampling in Belen!
Our initial goal here was to visit/survey 40 private residences in Belen's upper and lower zones and collect potable water samples in each location. Due to slight complications involving 5 homes not having readily available potable-water reserves during the time of our visit, we upped our survey number to 50 homes and finished up with a total of 45 water samples. According to the microbiology lab we're working with, the water sample results should be ready in a week or so -- We'll provide updates as soon as we've received and reviewed this data.
Here's a quick rundown of Friday's and today's (Monday's) adventures in Belen:
On Friday morning we met with our trusted guides, Roger and Pablo, and spent the morning surveying 15 homes in Belen's Zona Alta or "Upper Zone." The Zona Alta is a fairly picturesque portion of the municipality that boasts, from certain vantage points, an excellent view of Rio Itaya. The majority of houses here are cement-and-brick constructs, standing in sharp contrast to the casas balsas (floating wooden houses) and casas elevadas ("elevated houses" atop wooden stilts) seen in Lower Belen. A significant number of houses here seem to prefer paying for home-delivered, bottled water over consuming water from the tap.
Fast forward to today: Monday, July 18. This morning we again met with Roger and Pablo and began Day No. 4 of our Belen surveys. We opted to visit both Lower and Upper Belen, completing 5 surveys within each zone, bringing today's total to 10 and our overall Belen total to 50. We're currently working on compiling our survey/questionnaire results and will begin integrating the lab's water analysis data as soon as we receive it.
As far as leisure activities are concerned, we're doing quite well on that front, too. Friday afternoon saw us lounging at Casa Fitzcarraldo, a local hostel featuring copious comfy hammocks, perfect blue pool waters and a phenomenal/phenomenally high treehouse that rivals anything depicted in "Swiss Family Robinson."
Saturday can effectively be summarized in one sentence: PERU GANA (PERU WINS)!!!! In case you haven't heard, Peru's men's soccer team enjoyed a strong 2-0 victory over Colombia in the quarter-final round of Copa America 2011. And hey, we're pretty excited about it!
We have some good news to share: Today we completed our surveys and water sampling in Belen!
Our initial goal here was to visit/survey 40 private residences in Belen's upper and lower zones and collect potable water samples in each location. Due to slight complications involving 5 homes not having readily available potable-water reserves during the time of our visit, we upped our survey number to 50 homes and finished up with a total of 45 water samples. According to the microbiology lab we're working with, the water sample results should be ready in a week or so -- We'll provide updates as soon as we've received and reviewed this data.
Here's a quick rundown of Friday's and today's (Monday's) adventures in Belen:
On Friday morning we met with our trusted guides, Roger and Pablo, and spent the morning surveying 15 homes in Belen's Zona Alta or "Upper Zone." The Zona Alta is a fairly picturesque portion of the municipality that boasts, from certain vantage points, an excellent view of Rio Itaya. The majority of houses here are cement-and-brick constructs, standing in sharp contrast to the casas balsas (floating wooden houses) and casas elevadas ("elevated houses" atop wooden stilts) seen in Lower Belen. A significant number of houses here seem to prefer paying for home-delivered, bottled water over consuming water from the tap.
Fast forward to today: Monday, July 18. This morning we again met with Roger and Pablo and began Day No. 4 of our Belen surveys. We opted to visit both Lower and Upper Belen, completing 5 surveys within each zone, bringing today's total to 10 and our overall Belen total to 50. We're currently working on compiling our survey/questionnaire results and will begin integrating the lab's water analysis data as soon as we receive it.
As far as leisure activities are concerned, we're doing quite well on that front, too. Friday afternoon saw us lounging at Casa Fitzcarraldo, a local hostel featuring copious comfy hammocks, perfect blue pool waters and a phenomenal/phenomenally high treehouse that rivals anything depicted in "Swiss Family Robinson."
Such great heights: A dizzyingly high treehouse overlooks
the swimming area at Casa Fitzcarraldo.
Saturday can effectively be summarized in one sentence: PERU GANA (PERU WINS)!!!! In case you haven't heard, Peru's men's soccer team enjoyed a strong 2-0 victory over Colombia in the quarter-final round of Copa America 2011. And hey, we're pretty excited about it!
On Sunday we enjoyed a relaxing excursion to Santo Tomás, a village located on the Rio Nanay, a tributary of the Amazon. After a relaxing lunch at our new friend Pepe's house, we took a boat ride to a nearby floating bar/fishing platform on an exceptionally calm stretch of the Nanay. While slightly hesitant at first, we eventually all dove into the murky -- but incredibly refreshing -- river water for a quick swimming session.
And that about sums up the last several days. We'll provide you with more updates from our trip in the very near future.
Cheers!
Derek
At Santo Tomas: A small passenger boat begins a trip up the Rio Nanay.
And that about sums up the last several days. We'll provide you with more updates from our trip in the very near future.
Cheers!
Derek
Thursday, July 14, 2011
Day 2 in Belen!
Today we continued surveying in Belen's "Zona Baja" (Low Zone), the area that is affected most by the seasonal rise of the river. In the early morning, we visited two houses that were floating on the Rio Itaya, anchored to the land by an elaborate web of ropes and planks. In the first house, we stumbled upon a sad scene: two sisters having a meeting about their ailing father who had recently had an accident and now was bedridden and in pain. He lay on the bed next to them sleeping soundly. One of the sisters told us this story with tears in her eyes and asked if we could look at the medication he was taking. Since we are untrained to be giving medical advice, we deferred to our guide Roger, a local health worker, who advised the woman on her choice of medicine--a powerful painkiller. During that moment, we were disappointed that we could not offer more help to these people who are in such obvious need; however, it is moments like these that constantly reaffirm our decisions to become doctors and someday be able to provide much needed medical care to those with little access.
The rest of the day was filled was surveys, water collection, picture taking, and GPS coordinates. From our initial data analysis, it seems that fewer people treat their water in Belen and more people drink directly from the tap without a second thought. They have told us that their water has been treated already at the plant by Sedaloreto (the potable water company here in Iquitos), but Roger has told us that there are often breaks in the pipes which allow the potable water to become contaminated en route to the houses. We eagerly await the results of our water samples to see whether or not the drinking water is actually clean.
After a full day of 14 surveys and 13 water samples, we decided to unwind with a late afternoon swim at Sombrero de Paja, my friend's restaurant and pool. I showed the gang the small pool near the back of the restaurant that is filled with alligators and paiche (giant fish typically used in ceviche). They fed the animals and then we retired to the pool for some IncaKola and sunbathing.
Abrazos y besitos,
Kimbo
The rest of the day was filled was surveys, water collection, picture taking, and GPS coordinates. From our initial data analysis, it seems that fewer people treat their water in Belen and more people drink directly from the tap without a second thought. They have told us that their water has been treated already at the plant by Sedaloreto (the potable water company here in Iquitos), but Roger has told us that there are often breaks in the pipes which allow the potable water to become contaminated en route to the houses. We eagerly await the results of our water samples to see whether or not the drinking water is actually clean.
Entering a floating house in the Zona Baja of Belen.
Abrazos y besitos,
Kimbo
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Quistococha Excursion/ Beginning of Research in Belen
Hola, amigos!
It's been an action packed couple of days here in Iquitos, so here's an update about our recent goings-on.
Yesterday morning our four Team Iquitos members met with our project coordinator, Dr. Luis Rodriguez, to discuss our upcoming research ventures in Belen -- Iquitos' most impoverished municipality -- and to establish a relationship with a microbiology lab in Punchana that will be carrying out our desired water analysis test: fecal coliform count. [Fast facts on fecal coliform testing: Increased levels of fecal coliform bacteria in drinking water are useful for exposing shortcomings in water treatment, distribution and/or storage methods. Heightened levels of these bacteria typically go hand-in-hand with an increased risk of gastroenteritis and other not-so-enjoyable health maladies.]
Our ultimate goal is to demonstrate the need for a public health intervention in Belen by showing relationships between (1) the type of drinking water source in a given household (2) the degree of contamination of that household's water supply with coliform bacteria and (3) the frequency of gastroenteritis experienced in the household. With our objectives firmly in place, we felt it was about time for a short break! Thanking Dr. Rodriguez for his assistance, the four of us hailed a pair of motor taxis and headed to a unique tourist destination: Quistococha Park.
Located about 25 minutes from downtown Iquitos and featuring a tropical zoo, aquarium, local lore "museum" and placid beach area, Quistococha basically has something for everyone. Of particular interest to our group was learning about the many curious myths relating to life along the Amazon. We surely got our money's worth in this respect, as the park's main entrance way features a long, winding wall full of colorful murals that both illustrate and spell out local mythologies. One of the more memorable myths, titled "El Bufeo Colorado (The Pink Dolphin)," involves a rare pink dolphin assuming the form of a man and seducing young women to follow him to the dark river depths where he lives. Locals say that that these "false men" can be spotted by the large hats they wear to cover up their bald heads!
Take-home lesson: Ladies, beware of sweet-talking men (with or without hats), as they
just might be transformed dolphins with BAD INTENTIONS.
After satisfying our curiosity relating to local myths, we explored the zoo area, featuring a vast array of tropical fauna ranging from comical spider monkeys to insidious crocodiles to instantly lovable bottle-nosed dolphins. While it was difficult to see some of these dynamic critters confined to such small spaces, the zoo still afforded us a close-up look at the awe-inspiring biodiversity of Peru's jungles.
Crocodile at Quistococha Park, creepin' through some lush greenery.
Next up: BEACH TIME! Located about 100 meters from Quistococha's zoo area is a huge inland lake with designated swimming and lounging areas. Seeing as how it was a Tuesday afternoon (not your typical tourists' day out), we practically had the sandy beach to ourselves. While cloudy for the first hour or so, the sky eventually opened up and intense, summery sunlight shone through. We were wise about reapplying sunscreen on a regular basis and so avoided anyone's being burnt to a crisp. Upon exiting from this veritable paradise we enjoyed a delicious lunch consisting of locally caught/grilled fish, grilled plaintains, tacacho (local favorite; mashed plaintains rolled with bacon fat), and coconut milk direct from the source itself. After a satisfying lunch, we journeyed back to home base and did a bit of organizing/planning for the following day.
Life's a beach: View of the stunning inland lake at Quistococha Park.
Today, Wednesday July 13, marked the beginning of our research endeavors in Belen. As mentioned previously, Belen is a highly impoverished area of Iquitos, and stretches from the banks of the Amazon River to higher elevations that overlook the water. The majority of houses located in Belen's low-elevation areas are located on high support beams (roughly 4-5 meters in length) that prevent the flooding of personal living areas when the river's waters inevitably rise each year. We are told by Roger, our new guide from Belen's Seis de Octubre Heath Center that the river waters achieve a maximum height of 3 meters (9.84 feet) above the streets of Lower Belen. Thankfully for us, the river water height is currently at a minimum so we were able to travel between houses on foot rather than in canoe!
Our completed work in Lower Belen today consisted of 11 home visits and 9 collected water samples, which we subsequently submitted for testing to the microbiology lab in Punchana. Already we are noticing some sharp contrasts between water access in Belen versus water access in San Juan and Punchana. A considerable number of homes in Lower Belen admittedly drink water directly from the tap with no additional treatments (e.g., boiling and/or supplemental chlorine tablets) carried out. In addition, several homes had no running water source currently in place and are forced either to purchase potable water from homes with running water or to pay someone in possession of an expensive, pressurized pumping system to suction potable water their way. In either case, not an ideal situation.
We'll be back in Belen tomorrow and will update with more findings and photos ASAP. As always, thanks for your readership and support!
Abrazos,
Derek
Monday, July 11, 2011
Eat, Drink, and Be Merry
As requested by popular demand, here is the long overdue food blog post! As many of you know, the most Asian attribute of mine is perhaps the fact that I take photos of everything I eat, especially when I travel. I thought I'd take this opportunity to show everyone back at home some typical Peruvian and Iquiten cuisine. I broke it down into a couple of categories, including photos. Enjoy!
Breakfast -
A quick and easy meal here for us. Usually after our early morning run (5:30 am wake up!) at the soccer stadium, the girls and I will pick up some breakfast from the central market on the walk back. Breakfast here include things like juanes (a rice ball with chicken, eggs, and olives all wrapped up in a large tropical plant leaf), humitas (a tamale-like item made out of sweet corn), sandwiches, and a juice of some sort.
A quick and easy meal here for us. Usually after our early morning run (5:30 am wake up!) at the soccer stadium, the girls and I will pick up some breakfast from the central market on the walk back. Breakfast here include things like juanes (a rice ball with chicken, eggs, and olives all wrapped up in a large tropical plant leaf), humitas (a tamale-like item made out of sweet corn), sandwiches, and a juice of some sort.
Lunch - This may possibly be our favorite meal of the day, especially after a long day out in the field surveying from 8am to 2pm. A traditional lunch option here is called "menu", which essentially is a 2-course prixe fixe meal including an appetizer, a main course, and a jar of refreshing fruit juice. Our favorite place to go for "menu" is Huasai. Located just off the Plaza de Armas here in Iquitos, it is only 10 soles per meal and gives you a variety of options every single day. Never a dull moment, we have yet to repeat a meal at Huasai.
Dinner - We usually have dinner here around 7 or later. Many options await us. Some typical choices/main dishes include the following.
Pollo con Papas Fritas - grilled chicken and fries. Sounds simple? Simply delicious. Pollerias are everywhere. Iquitens love to frequent these chicken joints for some yummy chicken, and what else? Fries. Fries accompany almost EVERYTHING one can get here. I'm SO sick of fries. Was never a big fry-eater in the first place, and now they are everwhere. If you are lucky, you might be able to switch out the papas for some chaufa. What's chaufa you ask? Keep reading.
Parrilla - BBQ. Another common evening dining option. Every kind of meat imaginable grilled to perfection. We prefer the plato mixto, comes fully equipped with a mix of chicken, steak, pork chops, chorizo, and last but not least, anticucho, aka beef heart! No worries, cut into much smaller, and more manageable pieces, one cannot easily recognize its origin.
Chifa/Chaufa - Chinese food. Chinese people are everywhere, and so is our cuisine. Peru is no exception. Our favorite is the chaufa, aka friend rice. For some reason, the fried rice here tastes so much better than at home when I try to make it. We love to get a giant bowl of chaufa to split between the four of us. Perfectly tasty and economical, as a generous serving does not cost more than 15 soles.
This is it for now! Stay tuned for more food items that were not mentioned in this post. Coming up: cuy, cerviche, Inca Kola, arroz con leche, and more!
Xoxo,
Chlo
Sunday, July 10, 2011
And the winner of Miss Iquitos 2011 is...
Although Friday had come and gone, our weekend did not officially start until Saturday afternoon as we had an early morning meeting at the Centro de Salud in Belen, our third and final municipality in which we will be surveying. This meeting was a little different from the others in that no surveying has been done in Belen in the past. In San Juan and Punchana, we were merely asking the health centers to provide us with a competent guide to help us track down previously surveyed families. However, in Belen we not only need a competent guide but also assistance in selecting which houses and from what regions of the municipality we will be canvassing. As always, the people we met at the Centro de Salud were more than helpful in every way. We tentatively decided to begin in Belen on Wednesday or Thursday, as we believe we will be done in Punchana either Monday or Tuesday. Sampling in Belen will consist of surveying 40+ houses in order to round off our sample size, as well as collecting water samples from various sources TBD once surveying is complete.
After our meeting, we grabbed our cameras, books, and journals and headed down to the river. We stopped in to one of our new favorite spots: Camiri. It is a floating restaurant that you get to by descending a steep set of wooden stairs and crossing several planks that lay atop the water. We spent several hours there, laying in hammocks, drinking Camu Camu (a pink fruit drink) and iced coffee, reading, relaxing, and enjoying the beautiful river scenery. Around noon we went to lunch at Kim's friend Angel's new restaurant, Q'chara Brava. We had a delicious menu which consisted of sopa del minuto (chicken soup) and an entree (lomo saltado, pollo de seco, cecina con tacacho). Angel provided us with great service, food, and company, including the presence of his adorable five year old daughter Luna. Later that day we headed down to the Boulevard along the river for the Miss Iquitos Pageant, quite a spectacle. After watching the initial dance contest while snacking on coconut Shambo popsicles (our favorite hot afternoon treat) and Peruvian street kettle corn, we met up with friends at a nearby restaurant to watch the main act over chifles (plantain chips) and drinks. We stayed for the first three rounds: traditional dance and costumes, evening gowns made from recycled materials, and bathing suits. It was quite the event and seemed like almost all of Iquitos came out to see the pageantry. Later that night we had Kim's friends Ariana and Jessie over before we headed out for a night of dancing!
After our meeting, we grabbed our cameras, books, and journals and headed down to the river. We stopped in to one of our new favorite spots: Camiri. It is a floating restaurant that you get to by descending a steep set of wooden stairs and crossing several planks that lay atop the water. We spent several hours there, laying in hammocks, drinking Camu Camu (a pink fruit drink) and iced coffee, reading, relaxing, and enjoying the beautiful river scenery. Around noon we went to lunch at Kim's friend Angel's new restaurant, Q'chara Brava. We had a delicious menu which consisted of sopa del minuto (chicken soup) and an entree (lomo saltado, pollo de seco, cecina con tacacho). Angel provided us with great service, food, and company, including the presence of his adorable five year old daughter Luna. Later that day we headed down to the Boulevard along the river for the Miss Iquitos Pageant, quite a spectacle. After watching the initial dance contest while snacking on coconut Shambo popsicles (our favorite hot afternoon treat) and Peruvian street kettle corn, we met up with friends at a nearby restaurant to watch the main act over chifles (plantain chips) and drinks. We stayed for the first three rounds: traditional dance and costumes, evening gowns made from recycled materials, and bathing suits. It was quite the event and seemed like almost all of Iquitos came out to see the pageantry. Later that night we had Kim's friends Ariana and Jessie over before we headed out for a night of dancing!
The view from Camiri.
This morning we woke up in time for Jessie, her sister, and her two nieces to come over to the apartment. Jessie's sister does nails for a living and treated us each to a "house-call" pedicure. We improvised a little, i.e. used kitchen pots for foot soaking, but the end result was three beautiful sets of nails! The Peruvians love nail art, so we have officially been decked out with flowers, colors, glitter and gems...oh my. After every one was dry, we grabbed a mototaxi to the Nanay Port where we headed to Caza y Pesca, the Iquitos Hunting and Fishing Club. We took a short boat ride over to the club, which is a two story open air building overlooking the river. We ate a traditional lunch upstairs before heading down to the docks to soak up some sun before the afternoon showers set in. What a wonderful Sunday we had on the water! We will definitely be returning there sometime soon for a swim or two. Now off to Chato's, a Peruvian version of a diner/grill, for a light dinner...
Check back for more updates on our big week starting in Belen. And go America for the big win today in the women's world cup! For anyone who is interested, Peru will be playing Chile July 12 in the Copa America. We will be watching!
Chau Chau for now,
Katie
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